Hull completed

Hull planking is now complete.  After sanding and light staining, semi-matt varnish was applied.

I am trying to use acrylic paints throughout.

Hull planking

First layer of hull planking is now complete. Used PVA glue and removed all nails once it dried.

Before starting second planking, I glued on the keel but have decided to install the part at the bow once the second planking is complete. This should help achieve a better finish.

I have also added two blocks of scrap wood on the front to make sure bowspirit is well aligned and sturdy during installation later on. 

Fitting the bullwarks

With the split deck temporarily in place, I fitted the bulwarks, which were made of plywood. To be able to bend them around the hull, I soaked them in warm water. This however made the various layers of the plywood separate.

Using white glue, I re glued them, put them between two slabs of wood which I clamped together. I also put a layer of newspapers to make sure the bulwarks do not stick to the wood (that would be a real disaster).

The following day I bent them around the hull and the fit was excellent.

Due to the sharp bend at the top of the bulwarks, I pre-soaked the planks and used my favorite plank bender (photo below). The planks were left to dry on the tin for 24hours.

To ensure a good bend, I fitted the planks all around the bulwarks and cut them above the bow-spirit, in place, once the glue was dry. I am very pleased with the result.

I now plan to plank the bulwarks and trim planking around the portholes before planking the hull. 

Decided!

Fitting of top deck will happen at a later date - definitely not before I am happy that the lower deck is complete.  Would probably be a good idea to mark before. 


Plan to split the false upper deck in two so that I can remove it after bulwarks are in place.

I will re-install when all hull planking is complete and the gun-deck (lower) is finished.

Hope I eventually manage to finish the planking around the upper deck edges in a neat way, considering the bulwarks will be in place at that point. If they are not 100%, I consider adding waterways all around the top deck. These are not in the kit, but should not be a problem to source. 

Finishing off the planking

After finishing planking the deck, I have now scraped the surface with a blade and finished it off with fine steel wool.

When I applied clear matt acrylic varnish, some of the 'permanent' ink used on the side of the planks to simulate caulking bled to the surface leaving a slight smudge.

When dry, I re-sanded with 400 sandpaper and finished off with steel wool once again to remove the smudges.

The second coat was much better as the black ink was sealed by the first coat.

After the third coat, the finish is even better.

I now plan to varnish individual planks before using them to plank the upper deck. That should minimize smudging even more. 

Dilemma

Instructions say that the upper deck must be fitted in place before bulwarks, which is probably too early considering the area that will be covered. It will also shut off access to the lower deck canon port holes. 

Ideally, will plank the hull and fit in bulwarks before, but not sure upper deck can be fitted in after that. Need to experiment a bit before concluding. 

Started planking

Decided to fit deck first and plank afterwards. Would probably be a good idea to mark before.  Risk of damage during clamping of deck to keel will be minimised too. 


Started planking the lower deck. Marked false deck at 3cm intervals.

Plank sides were painted black using a permanent marker and cut to size using a simple guide made out of scrap wood.

I plan to finish off by scraping with a blade, rubbing with fine steel wool and applying a coat of matt acrylic varnish. 

Frame complete

The frame in now complete and planning the lower deck. I decided to go for the 'paint the side of the plank' method using a permanent marker. 

Regarding the decking pattern, I plan to use 3 step pattern. 

My dilemma is the following: 

The lower deck is split in two halves to make it possible to fit into the frame. Instructions say these halves should be first planked and then fitted on the frame. The risk is a joint might show running along the middle of the deck. 

The other option is to first fit the deck and then plank it in place, making the whole process more difficult. 

The model at the Madrid Naval Museum

GO!

Started work on this frigate by Occre in February 2009. It is based on the Spanish Fragata Diana, rather than the British HMS Diana. A model of this ship exists in the Naval Museum in Madrid (see picture below). Any historic information you might have will be most welcome.

This is my second ship, the first one being the Schooner Albatros, by Occre too.


Quoting Occre's website:


"The frigate Diana was launched on the 10th of March 1792. It formed part of the series of frigates known as "Mahonesas", as they had been built in the city of Mahón. Thanks to its design, it could sail faster than its predecessors. It took part in the war against France along the Catalan coast although, during the war of Independence, its base was in Cadiz. As a member of the naval forces of Havana, it took part in battles against the corsairs in the Antilles and made various trips across the Atlantic. It was broken up in 1833 in the naval shipyard of Cartagena."

I will try to keep this log updated with progress as I go along.